Heavenly people

I never tire of seeing Pont Alexander III. Grey skies or blue skies, it is always sparkling.

Did a lot of must-dos today. Saw the Grand, Petit Palais (to think that Louis and Marie lost theirs heads exactly for this kind of construction). Palais de Chaillot exudes grandeur. Also, the best view of the Eiffel tower is certainly from here. Sat in the Jardins du Trocadero and started 'The Salterton Trilogy', Robertson Davies. Walked on to Ecole Militaire and then Hotel des Invalides. Its beautiful. What I liked the most:
What interesting attention to detail! And to think that its actually a hospital, in all probability for the wounded of war.

I have also realised that we go around seeing ancient beauties and have boulevards named after people who are so trivial in the greater scheme of things. But the real genuises are neglected. Found what I was hoping existed...
I think Eva Curie's biography of her mother is one of the best books that I have read. She has captured the emotions so beautifully and objectively. The part in the book when Pierre Curie has the fatal accident and Madame Curie's reaction to it - I wept. I wept thinking that with all the genius and the Nobel and the adulation, I do not want her life and to know her unhappiness. I know every life has its tragedies but I will happily go through life as a nonentity without such heart wrenching losses.

I must have been very close to Pasteur's lab as well but I didn't have the number. Searched on part of the street Rue des Fosses St Jacques, where it is supposed to be, but couldn't find it. My loss.

An interesting sight was seeing this temple in the middle of a normal thoroughfare. There was a beautiful Russian Orthodox church close by also. I think I just got lazy to get my camera out of the bag. One of the reasons why we should all travel around like Japanese tourists constantly clicking away.

Whew!!

I walked and I walked and then I walked some more. July is getting over and I'm on overdrive trying to see all the places in Paris that I still haven't touched.

Today was totally dedicated to the Montmatre. I have been to the Sacre Coeur before but today I explored the little streets on the hill. I remember watching the Paris vineyard on TV once. It was fun seeing it real, more so because it was such a pleasant day, read not boiling hot. Rue Girardon, Rue St Rustique - adorable alleyways. And you keep running into the most interesting houses. Saw the first atelier where Picasso exhibited his work. There were so many painters at the Place du tertre. I liked one of them. Most of his paintings were typical french houses with flowers in the balconies. His flowers seemed so amazingly vibrant, they could light up the dullest room possible. And then on to the Sacre Coeur. Dont they look like they'll jump off any minute.

From here, on to the Ninth arrondisement. Rested myself at Saint Trinite. The passages were a good walk but nothing noteworthy. The same for the walk close to the Bastille. Lots of cafes, nothing I'll remember. By this time, I was dead tired and just dragged myself home.

The highlight has to be: a small house for a man who, today, could have bought entire islands, if not mansions in all the major cities of the world.

Results out....

I PASSED!! I PASSED!!! I PASSED!!!!!!!!!!!

Gut sense said, the results should be released today. I had been sitting on the comp and checking every 10 minutes. And they were released in the short while that I went to the loo. So, in the end, it was the Incas who called in and told me to check and then.....yeah!!!

What a relief! Besides the happiness, it would have been most embarrasing to fail.

At the end of the day, went to drop off some groceries that Roosevelt and Gaulle needed. They are really struggling with the baby. Information overload. American grandparents have some words of advice and then French grandparents say something totally contradictory and to top it off, you have the internet. Baby rearing - everyone considers themselves an expert on the subject.

Found it!

Finally, finally, finally...finally, I have found the Latin Quarter or rather that part of the Latin Quarter, which was as I had pictured it. Lots of eateries, cobblestones streets, colourful bags. The only thing missing was music. The place to remember was Rue des Andre des Arts and especially Cour du Commerce St Andre, a lovely cobblestone street.

This was a Russian Orthodox Church, totally hidden from view. You enter a gate and then go up an inclined road, sort off like a Buddhist monastery layout. Pretty, antique painted doors. I liked the shape.

I visited the church just before I was driven off the road by a cat.........yes, I know, I'm not proud of myself.
Was walking along and there was this totally black, feline creature in the middle of the road. I thought I should be able to pass by but she started growling and well, she was looking really menacing. I figured maybe she hasn't heard about the superiority of the human race. So, in my prudent frame of mind, I decided not to take any chances, and...took another road.

Back home, had to have essential, long conversations with Madame regarding our move. It really tests my French but god alone knows, what she understands of what I am trying to say. I have to work on speaking slowly. Right now, I speak as if I am scared that the person across will run away without hearing me out. Its a verbal marathon. Yoga has finally recommenced from today. Its a pleasure getting into postitions, really stretches all parts of the body. Getting Tweedledum to a doctor is URGENT. Somehow I can never understand the severity of the pain. How is he walking about?

As for the end to the day, we were to have Indian rajma, thai mixed vegetables and chinese rice for dinner. But our friend from Renault called and we ended up having Turkish doners instead. So, no cooking tomorrow.

Happy birthday to me!

What a lovely day! Spent it in Paris, all day....

The great start was yesterday itself when the Incas called to wish. Was really touched. Then the Aztecs had called us over for dinner. It was quite a coincidence - another one of the guests shared his b'day with me. Though we didn't seem to be too similar, except for the fact that both of us are always in the library.

And then came today. My walking started with the Viaduc des Arts near the Bastille, very pretty. On to the 3rd arrondisement, which didn't have too many pretty sights, but amazing discoveries. Found a Peruvian shop selling Pisco and Aqui!! Can't wait to tell the Incas. Am thrilled to have a supplier for my Aqui consumption. So that I don't forget, it was at 17, Rue de Picardie. The Metro Temple should be the best. Walked on and found a shop selling off all its stock and I bought a really cute number in pink. Just the thing I wanted for this heat. Didn't try it there, but wonder of wonders, it fits!!! If this wasn't sufficient, I then found Passage Brady, indian food, full platter for 5 euros, wow!!!! I'm overdoing the exclamation marks but I'm in that state of mind. Went into a store to relax with air-conditioning and what do I find - the CD of Last of the Mohicans! Have been searching for that since years. Had to buy it. Then, on to Jardin des Luxembourg in the 6th. Very beautifully laid out. Most of them are from the Medici period but found one very nouveau piece. Sat there for some time just savouring in the day and the peace and then moved on to Saint Sulpice. Poor guys. Instead of religious pamphlets, they have to put up all kinds of disclaimers about the Da Vinci code. There was a bunch of people trying to photograph themselves with the season calculator (for want of a better word, the Rose Line). Just my luck, recieved all calls from home while in the cathedral. Had to keep running out. It was Tweedledum's cell and I had no idea how to manage the volume control.

If all this wasn't enough, at the end of this beautiful day, Tweedledum took me out to a cute, little restaurant where I have been wanting to go for quite some time now. Le Petit Alsace. We had a lovely three course meal which was very decently priced too. However, the hugest faux pax ever - I thought the wine was included. It wasn't. That stupid glass of Gewurztraminer cost me 15 euros!!!!

A thought - I never wished to have a birthday in Paris. It seemed that unattainable that it didn't cross the mind as a wishable possibility ever. And then not only am I in Paris today but to spend the month travelling to places in Europe, how wonderful is that! And it really is all thanks to you. Eliminating the borders and challenging our horizons. I never say it but thank you! Thank you for this year. I hope I can make you as happy. I hope when the time comes I play my part in helping you achieve those dreams that you never dared even dream.

......and now on with the year........

Stations

Am going to try and collect pictures of all the interesting stations that I come across in Paris. So this should be a post that will keep growing over the next two months.

This was the entrance to


The Bastille-M1.



The stairs at Abbesses...they go on and on and on...
The museum like Louvre - Rivoli. Only in Paris can there be no fear of vandalism of artworks in a place as public as a railway station.

Konichiwa

Dinner table conversations. We had a serious discussion today on which is more addictive, nicotine or hashish? Well, I came up with my 'expert' opinion that while nicotine is an addiction of the body, with the body craving for more, hash is an addiction of the mind, with the mind constantly craving for that state of being. Fortunately, our crepes arrived just in time and we lost interest in the subject. La Poterne at Moret-sur-loing is the most amazing place for crepes. Sitting overhanging the river, good location and good service. Instead of rose wine, we went for chilled cidre. Great! Tomorrow, of course, I will see all the cheese settling in the worst places possible.

During one of my walks in Paris, had come across this shop window. It is actually a chocolate fall in imitation of God's waterfall. How does one stay thin in France with all the fabulous food around? It is beyond me. And if that is not enough, there are temptations of the skin juxtaposed with temptations of the stomach.



The highlight of the day was Sakuri-chan coming for a holiday. She will be here for the next couple of days and I would really like that she has a good time. We had a long discussion about Japanese customs and how they are dying a slow death as the next generation looses interest in them. Her mum is a tea ceremony instructor and she explained how one offers the tea cup, the conversation style in the course of the ceremony etc. There are specific kimonos worn not just by the occssion but also by the season. For example you will wear a kimono with the cherry blossom design in March when the flower is in season. In October, it would show, that you have not been bought up well and have no knowledge. Interesting......

Do the French perspire?

Believe it or not, a couple of statistics, the temperature in france today is 40 degrees, in bombay its 28 and in delhi 35. To think that we came to the west to get away from the heat...bad decision....and they still dont have fans and air conditioning. My landlady opens up all doors and windows in the morning and then by 8am, she shuts of everything, shutters included. It seems that keeps the cold in. Also, they live in stone houses. For us, the beautiful green spaces make it worthwhile.
The sleep under a tree on a hot summer afternoon...you wake up sweaty but the sleep is aaahhhh......heavenly. Its the sleep you get on the train when heading back home in the middle of the afternoon or when you are travelling by train for a 3 o'clock meeting. The latter makes you too drowsy for good negotiations of course. And some of our friends keep cool by lazing in the water. Thats a pretty good option too.

And if the temperatures weren't high enough already, yesterday, we had a huge argument on Israel with Tweedledum defending their aggresive stance. My problem is that I cant agree with him on the subject. At a basic level, I just don't believe in their right to exist 'there'. You cant come into someone's country and claim it as yours because Moses led you there 2500 years ago. So the heat got even higher.

Am saving a picture of my baked aubergines for posterity. Gave myself a pat on the back when they turned out edible. Lesson learnt - keep experimenting, sometimes the result makes it worthwhile.

Mona Lisait with latkes

Interesting walks today - came across some places that I would certainly want to revisit. Heading the list was a bookshop selling books and encyclopedias at discount rates of 1-5 euros. Thanks to the anticipated baggage limit, couldn't even think of buying any. Name of the shop - Mona Lisait! The beauty was that I chanced upon it because I took the wrong road. Was to have turned at Rue des Rossiers (Marais) but I continued on with Rue Malher. Rue des Rossiers is said to be the Jewish quarter and it certainly felt like it - the windows, the people (caps et al). There was a great bakery - Korcarz. Want to go back there with Tweedledum one of these days. Other interesting eateries - Goldenberg, Sacha, L'As du fallafel (note the name).






On the subject of Tweedledum, he's going to love this.....

And then on the next walk, came across actual exposed wooden beam houses aka the 15th century. They were just a couple of ordinary houses in a lane but imagine the antiquity. On rue du Pont Louis Philippe, saw the prettiest violin case ever. If that was the case, wonder what the violin looks like. Am noting the shop - some day I'll be back......and for that I better start practicing my playing. Have just given up since last year. Playing has become so intermittent.



There was a place called the Museum of curiosite et de la magie. Unfortunately open only on Wed, Sat and Sun. If possible, will go back and check it out.

And the good news, Roosevelt and Gaulle have had a baby girl! Somehow for the first time, the transition is striking me. Till last week, we were talking about the weight Roosevelt is gaining and that 'it' should be any time now. And suddenly there is a whole new person in this world. 'It' looks, feels, eats, thinks and very soon argues, fights, sulks:-)...this is magic.

A Yoga realisation

I keep hearing - "If it wasn't for America, the French would be speaking German". Just realised, but if it wasn't for the French, the Americans would still be saying 'God Save the Queen'.:-)

Stoned Immaculate

Amsterdam! What a city! Religion, beauty, homeliness, vice, all along the same street in a beautiful co-existence. The most surreal moment was walking along a canal, the mental tranquillity of a marijuana haze, red lit streets on both sides and church bells resounding in the air.
The streets, how do you capture the craziness - bunches of tourists gawking at women displaying their wares in glass windows. And what was wondrous was that the tourists were groups of men and women, ordinary men and women, husbands wives, mothers fathers, gazing at the world's oldest profession.

As for the Dutch, even though they seem to permit just about everything, they don't seem to smile as much. If I met them on the street, just might think of them as russians.
The most wondrous memory, seeing the real works of the master. His scribbles, his sketchings - what an eye!! Crows over a wheatfield - negative, despair? I haven't seen a painting exude that amount of vitality...ever.....couldn't have imagined it possible with paints. And then to drive back looking at the countryside, this time through his eyes.
After the trip, am trying to figure out which are my favourite Van Gogh's. Due to paucity of space, will limit it to four.

Les Royales en Paris

I really like these Paris walk cards. They take me to places I would never have ventured. Covered rue de la Huchette and all the back alleys. Chanced upon a sweet little cathedral at the back where thery were polishing the chairs. How I love the smell of varnish! And of course, no tourists, total silence.
And then came to "Shakespeare and Company", the book shop started by Walt Wiltman. Its a great back up option for me, second hand books being available for 4-5 euros. Just when I was about to enter, the bells started tolling at the Notre Dame, Chirac's cavalcade tried to cross the street and I saw a big black cat sitting at the table right in front giving me the up down look. Felt I had ventured into some magical land and was about to enter and buy myself a wishing wand....for lack of better option coming to mind, it could very well have been the wand shop from Harry Potter. Decided not to enter and break the spell.
The Arene de Lutece must have been spectacular in its heydays. What's left of it is too cleaned and whitewashed for me, doesnt have the historical touch. Especially when you go in picturing lions and gladiators and find a bunch of children playing with balls. Moreover, they broke off a large part to accomodate Rue de Monge. Saw the original structure at the Musee du Carnavalet. Where, by the way, it was interesting to see a replica of the Bastille made of the original stone.

When in France, you just dont seem to get enough of the royal family. They market the bloodiness. At the Place de la concorde, you can actually imagine where Louis XVI was guillotined and then closer to the Jardins des Tuilleries, where Marie Antoinette and the rest met Madame la Guillotine. At the museum, they had paintings of the Dauphin being taken away from Marie Antoinette and other such scenes. Quite heart rending. They have even preserved their hair...horrendous!!!
One of the cards took me to the Sorbonne. Would love to see it from the inside. Wonder if that is possible. There is a chapel where Cardinal Richelieu is buried. I'm not too interested in his politics but wanted to see it for the Three Musketeers. And on the subject of literature, the Maison de Victor Hugo had illustrations of his works, his bedroom (tried to feel like a genius in a borrowed environment, failed), letters written by him. His handwriting will make Tweedledum feel very happy.
In a different vein, its fun teaching La Petite Fille english. Love hearing her speak the words in a french accent. And for the first time, I can see the vagaries of the English language through foriegn eyes. The subtle difference between looked, surveyed, regarded...the difference in the sound of 'i' in words like in, it, tinned, possible and then wife, side, time.

Today, I am finally moving on with life, leaving behind Zidane's headbutt. He's still the best......and my ban of Italian pizza continues.......

Our first venture with ViaMichelin

So, we have officially started our drives around France. First stop - Chartres. After getting lost once along the way, not bad by our standards, we arrived in the town which seems to exist for the cathedral. And what a cathedral! Immense! Huge, intricate stained glass windows throwing bluish light all over.

Our luck - there was a wedding underway when we reached. It was so beautiful with the choir singing, I'm thinking of it as a choir, it may have been the brides uncles and aunts singing good riddance in latin. And at the cost of repeating what thousands of people before me must have said, the different spires do give it a magically different feeling, one for christianity one for the druids.

A clock where time stands still - Tweedledum (Scorpio) at 6 and me at 9 (Leo).

The art of communication

"I am going to Gaul and I would really like if you can come along with me. Will you be a part of this experience with me."
How a few words could have changed my life......

Whats the message dudes??

What is it with the French and erections at roundabouts?? (;-)

This one's the Colonne Vendome with Napoleon astride at the top.
...cant help posting 'Napoleon in the sky with diamonds':-)



....the Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde


...the Obelisk with another one in the background


The Bastille!!


........I'll be back with more.......

L'Ile de la Cite

Summer's here and I have officially started "doing" Paris. First up, Rue D'Arcole was this pretty little cobble street which leads to The Notre Dame. Thought, enough of seeing the Notre Dame from outside.....but inside, a bit of a disappointment. The stained glass windows and the rest are very pretty but thats what they are, very pretty. Not the take your breath away category. Though, I guess, it has a lot to do with the experience. Too many tourists around, with too many flashes of the camera. What was spectacular, however, was a view of The Grande Dame from the back, from the Memorial des Deportations. The arches, the green statues of the angels or kings against the grey backdrop, towering over the park grounds. As usual, camera, gave up on me right then but will go back for some pics. Here's one of my attempts:

And then the blood thirsty, primitive side in me. Had been so disappointed when I realised that the Bastille no longer exists. It is so much a part of the history that we study about the French, almost their identity for the rest of the world. Anyway, it seems, that was not where Marie Antoinette and the rest were imprisoned. It was in a place called the Conciergerie, which is now a museum for Revolution relics. A must 'dekho'- though I saved it up for a free Sunday. Btw, the guillotine was named after Dr. Joseph-Ignace Guilottin, whose ancestors had to change their name later, to avoid the unfortunate connection. What can I say?

And the Pont Neuf. The oldest bridge on the Seine. The inauguration was amusing - the king trotted across on his horse. Could imagine the village crowds cheering him as he went trot, trot, trot..... this is a pic from the bridge. Thats the king on his horse...commerated forever.

And, have decided, I love American tourists. Their devil may care attitude is phenomenal!!

How do you define heaven...

The last three days of my life.

Ever noticed the play of sunlight on leaves, when you are lying in the shade, looking up at the tree. The soft rustling sound, the smell of grass, the ripples in the water as a bird swoops down in search of food. Ever tried identifying the direction of the birds whose chirping fades in and out, softly, lulling you to sleep.



A change to Khayyam - a bottle of beer, a grilled chicken and tweedledum besides me, it couldnt get better.



And then the madness in Paris, post the football match. Zizu is the best!!!! With the feet sorcery that he displayed, even Tweedledum couldn't support Brazil. "On est en demi!!!!"

And to round it off with crepes on the banks of the river......

.....and as the grande finale, I am finally driving again.....freedom!!